Permanent vs. Demi-Permanent Hair Color | Discover Kenra Color | Kenra Professional


How do we know when to use permanent
color versus demi-permanent color? There are many different uses for each so
let’s take a look at those differences as well as their ideal suggested use.
Permanent hair color is used for lift and deposit as well as gray coverage. A
small amount of ammonia is used in order to open up the cuticle layer of the hair
so that the dye molecule can go inside and live in the cortex. Gray coverage,
vibrant redheads, lighter and richer brunettes as well as sunny blondes are
all aided by the use of permanent hair color. Standard mixing for permanent
color is a one-to-one ratio with a process time of 30 minutes. If you’re
looking to cover resistant gray the process time will be 40 minutes. We have
four developers in the permanent color category to give you the proper amount
of lift and deposit for your clients. We have 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume and 40 volume. 10 volume is used when we want to deposit or go darker on the hair. 20
volume is typically used for gray coverage and it provides both lift and
deposit as well as up to one level of lift for a standalone lifting service. 30
volume can give us anywhere between 2 to 3 levels of lift and 40 volume can
provide 3 to 4 levels of lift. You may be asking when do I use the 30 or the 40
depending on the level. Well, that depends on the client’s texture and density.
Someone with fine hair may be able to achieve 3 levels of lift with 30 volume
but for someone with a coarse texture or high density you may need to bump up
that developer to 40 volume in order to get the lift desired. Gray coverage is
usually achieved using 20 volume developer especially if the client is
80% or more gray if three or more levels of lift are needed along with gray
coverage 30 volume and 40 volume can technically also be used. The N Series
is necessary for great coverage so you can use our Natural Series our Natural
Ash Series the Natural Brown Series or the Natural Ultra Ash Series for
standalone coverage or mixed with any of other shades in the portfolio based off
of that client’s percentage of gray. For clients with 25% gray
we recommend incorporating 25% of any of the N Series into your formulation and
75% of the desired end result. For clients between 25 and 50 percent we
recommend mixing 50% of the N Series and 50% of your desired end result. If
the client has over 50% gray we actually recommend mixing 75% of the N Series
with 25% of your desired end result. Underlying pigment is natural pigment
found in all hair and is visually exposed anytime we are lifting two or
more levels. Knowing the underlying pigment at each level allows us to
either use it to our advantage to accentuate warm tones or to cancel them
out when necessary. Our demi-permanent color is ammonia-free
and for deposit only color services. The grow-out is softer subtle with little to
no line of demarcation and you can use the demi-permanent not only to refresh the
ends but also achieve gray blending. Standard mixing is at a 1 to 2 ratio
with our 9 volume activator on damp or dry hair for up to 25 minutes. For gray
blending we actually drop the ratio down to a 1 to 1 still processing for up to
25 minutes. Our demi-permanent color can be used in many different ways. Let’s take a
look at a few of them. First, we have color enhancing. This is when we apply
demi-permanent color from scalp to ends on damp or dry hair anytime we’re looking
to deposit tone. If there’s no need for lift or gray coverage use demi-permanent for this service. Color equalizing: I love utilizing a color
equalizing service because I may need permanent color for lift and or gray
coverage at the roots but I also love refreshing my mids and
ends with demi-permanent. Toning: I love toning my clients with demi-permanent color
because there’s no need for additional lift, I can deposit the tone neutralize
what I need to or accentuate the warmth I’m looking for all in one step
using demi-permanent color. Typically with toning I don’t need the
full process time and usually I can get it with about 10 to 15 minutes on damp
hair at the bowl. Gray blending: As we discussed earlier all you need to do in
order to get a gray blend is drop your ratio from a 1 to 2 down to a 1 to 1 and
let it process for the full 25 for a superior gray blend. Clear gloss: Clear
gloss is a versatile tool in the Kenra Color portfolio that can be used in many
different ways. It can be used standalone to provide shine on hair that is dull it
can also be mixed in with any of our other shades to dilute the formula or
extend process times. Within our demi-permanent portfolio we have some
amazing options to tone in five minutes or less right at the bowl. These are our
Rapid Toners. Now, the Rapid Toners are mixed just like every other demi-
permanent color in the portfolio at a 1 to 2 ratio with our 9 volume activator
but the process time again is 5 minutes or less.
We currently offer a silver violet, a violet pearl, a beige and a green blue
rapid toner. Our silver violet Rapid toner has an intense blue violet base
and is recommended for levels 8 through 10 pre-lightened hair. Our violet pearl
Rapid Toner is a translucent violet base also recommended for levels
8 through 10 on pre-lightened hair. Beige Rapid Toner has a violet base and is
recommended for levels 9 and 10 on pre- lightened hair and our green blue rapid
toner is an intense saturation of both green and blue to neutralize warmth at
levels 4 through 6. Kenra Color makes formulating simple with our 5 easy steps
to color formulation. Step 1: Determine the client’s natural level by utilizing
either the level finder or the N Series swatch page in your Kenra Color swatch
book. You’ll also want to determine texture and density for proper
formulation. Step 2: Determine desired level and tone
utilizing your kenra color swatch book this information should be gathered
through a thorough consultation with your client. Step 3: Determine volume of
developer thanks to steps one and two we understand what our clients natural
level is as well as what their desired level is so this tells us how many
levels of lift or deposit is needed which will in turn let us know which
volume of developer to choose. Step 4: Determine percentage of gray. Now that we
have steps one through three out of the way it may seem like we have a formula
already in our minds. However, steps four and five can come in and completely
change the formula determine your clients percentage of gray to make sure
that you are incorporating the correct amounts of N along with the desired end
result to also get the coverage that you’re looking for. Step 5: Determine
underlying pigment. Remember, any time we are lifting two or more levels
underlying pigment can be exposed so make sure to take this into
consideration when formulating to either enhance it or neutralize it. We’ve
covered many different uses for permanent and demi-permanent color and
now you have all the information necessary to make the best decision
behind the chair. To learn more be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel and
check out the other videos in the Kenra Color 101 Series!

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